Two stunning champagnes from 2002
Are you a big fan of Champagne you probably know that Delamotte is on of the best buys in the region. Since 1989, when Laurent Perrier took over the estate, it has practically been a sister-domaine of Salon – the benchmark of all blanc de blancs. But Delamotte has been making wine since 1760 and even if it is not on par with Salon – the wines are truly great and deserves a spot in the limelight.
Last week the Delamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs 2002 (€54) was released here in Sweden. It is one of four cuvées that Delamotte has to offer (the others beeing a standard brut, a rosé and a standard non-vintage blanc de blancs). The Domaine owns roughly 5 hectares in the grand cru village Les Mesnil-sur-Oger but buys in most of it’s grapes from premier cru villages in the vicinity. And in years when there is no Salon made – they’ve got access to Salons vineyards (there has only been 39 vintages of Salon made since the start in 1911 – 36 of which have been released)
Delamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs 2002 is a wonderful champagne. The colour is pale yellowish and clear. On the nose it feels fresh and young with notes of butter, yeast (autolysis), citrus and chocolate/cocoa powder. The taste is developed and almost soft but also fresh with good fruit concentration and acicity. The elements of citrus, chocolate/cocoa powder and mineralas comes back on the palate with signs of maturity and a powerful but also delicate finish. You could easily drink it now but it will most certainly develop well for another 10 years!
Jaquesson is another great champagneproducer and here is antoher great 2002 (also released last week). Jacquesson Brut Millésime is done only in the best years and from the best vats containing wine from grand and premier cru vineyards in Dizy, Ay and Mareuil in Valée de la Marne. At the moment I do not think that it is a match for the Delamotte Blanc de Blancs – even though it is a really good wine. It most definitely feels younger and more undeveloped. The yeast/autolysis character is more pronounced and the taste is very fresh with elements of biscuits, minerals and citrus. I find just a hint of maturity – mushrooms and ripe fruit – and the finish is long and piercing. It needs at least another 3-5 years in bottle before it comes togheter!