It’s not my favorite grape by default – but the wines made from Austrias own Grüner Veltliner can be amazing. It all comes down the balance between aromatic fruit characters and acidity – because a non-fresh spicy aromatic fruitiness isn’t just that interesting in itself.
In my mind there are more than a few similarities between Grüner Veltliner and Viognier or for that matter Pinot Gris. They all can be refreshingly aromatic with layers upon layers with exotic fruits. But they need that acid tinge that gives the fruit that extra lift for them not to turn flabby.
But to tell the truth – I more often comes across the fresh ones than the flabby kind so lets not whine. Most often the the best wines come from the Wachau where they also get an almost steely minerality as well.
This is very true about Veyder-Malberg Hochrein Grüner Veltliner 2010 that is one of the best examples of the grape that I’ve tasted in a while. The producer is a new acquaitance for me. It was the guys behind the danish wine bar Ved Stranden 10 that thought that I ought to try it – and I am glad I did.
The estate is leaded by Peter Veyder-Malberg who has a been doing wine in, besides Austria, USA, Italy, Germany, Switzerland and New Zeeland. Since 2008 he is his own winemaker and wine consultant. He sought out the best terassed vineyards in Wachau and now farms them biodynamically.
The Hochrein Grüner Veltliner comes from terraced loessdominated slopes in Wösendorf and the 2010 is a beuaty. It vibrates with young fresh and delicately peppery/spicy exotic fruit aromas (lime, kiwi, mango) and got that almost steely/flinty minerality as a backbone. It is light to medium bodied and got fresh citrus tinge as well and the aftertate is beautifully balanced and long! Just love it!